Pattern Making

Pattern Making (PM), Grading and Marker Making

Pattern Making can be divided in three main parts:

Pattern Making


Marker Making

Pattern Making

Pattern Making, also known as Pattern Drafting, is the process of creating 2-D flat pieces of cardstock paper that can be used as the model that shows you exactly how to cut the fabric, which will then be sewn together to form your 3-D garment.

Pattern Making is a key step in guaranteeing a great fit and our pattern makers at Urth Apparel have decades of experience, not to mention, four year bachelor’s degrees and master’s from Italy’s best universities.   See, Pattern Making in Europe is a degree that is earned at schools where programs are equivalent in challenge and coursework to an engineering program at Stanford at M.I.T.

Why does this matter to us?  The Pattern is the heart of the garment and we expect our pattern makers to strive for perfection on every garment and every piece of clothing’s fit.

Our team has many tools to make great patterns.  Patterns can be made by hand, but most often, our team uses CAD software by Lectra, Europe’s leading pattern making software, to create digital patterns.

At first, the pattern is realized in a single size based on the Size Chart – that is the measurements guide.


While the first Pattern is realized in a single size, which is the one chosen for sampling purposes, in production the same style will be realized in different sizes (Full Size Range - FSR).

Grading is the extrapolation of the full size range (i.e. the measurements for each different size of the same garment) which are analyzed and drawn from the base size sample or size chart.

Marker Making

Once the Pattern and the FSR are approved for production, the factory is required to perform Marker Making. This third step consists in positioning all the pattern pieces above the fabric thanks to the use of a Marker software. The main goal is to optimize the marker by fitting all the pieces in an optimal manner and minimize fabric waste.

At Urth Apparel, we have specialists who have over 10 years of experience in only Marker Making.  This translates to cost savings and fabric savings for our clients, as our Marker Makers experience, combined with top software tools, allow them to obtain the most efficient markers possible.

Remember, you can’t underestimate the importance of the human in the process of making garment!

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